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(This article is contributed by Gary
Ziegler)
A lot has happened in Mexico's Copper Canyon area
since it pyroclastic origin some twenty five million years ago.
Great mountains rose in a fiery display of smoke and ash. Torrents
of rain and wind, cut deep slashes in the raising igneous colossus
that we now know as the Sierra Madre, to form immense canyons. Some
eleven or twelve thousand years ago, the first humans arrived,
migrating bands of nomadic hunters seeking fate and fortune in
dangerous unknown lands. During the ensuing millennia multitudes of
unknown peoples passed through, some eventually staying to take up
residence in the many shelter caves to practice simple farming.
And so it was in the spring of 1541 when a
detachment of Conquistadores from Coronado's expedition in search of
the seven golden cities of Cebola first encountered a group of
naturales, they called Tarahumara. More time passed, the Tarahumara,
or Raramuri as they call themselves, planted maize and warred with
their southern neighbors, the Tepahuanes. In 1607 an event took
place that would change life forever in the canyon country. Jesuit
missionaries arrived with mandate from the Spanish Crown to
Christianize and civilize, the policy of reducion which changed
forever the way of life in Spanish America. The story of of the
survival and adaptation of the Tarahumara during the colonial years
and later under the Mexican Republic, is a fascinating, complex epic
that I leave for a long evening around the campfire.
Mysteries abound in a multitude of inaccessible,
forgotten arroyos and cerros that climb and plunge in rugged
highlands separating the great canyons. Who built the Mogollon style
houses that occupy several cliff sites? Who built the carefully made
stone terraces, andenes? What early people lived in round houses?
These are a few of many enigmas that capture our imagination.
It was with these thoughts in mind that naturalist
guide Amy Finger, author, Carl Franz (People's Guide To Mexico) and
I sat out to explore several new areas in the the rugged hill
country north and east of the Copper canyon in November of 1995.
With local rancher, Esteban Cobos, we searched the lower Cusarare
canyon for evidence of pre -Tarahumara occupation finding a number
of shelter cave sites
Our next goal was to locate a new remote route
down into the upper Urique Canyon (Barranca del Cobre), by which Amy
could bring her small adventurer groups. We were excited to follow a
stone paved mule trail that proved to be part of Alexander Shepard's
(silver baron of Batapilas) Camino Real, a systems of trails, built
to transport silver from the depths of the Batapilas Canyon.
Although part of the trail showed recent use by Tarahumara, we
cleared and repaired many places to allow our loaded burros to pass.
A broad beach camp site at the Urique river was everyone's romantic
fantasy. And we were miles away from the backpacking
hordes,muchileros.Wanderings from camp located an abandoned mine
with hot springs and a hidden grotto canyon with magical swimming
pool beneath a waterfall. We shared the canyon with an Elegant
Trogon and Magpie Jays.
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In November 1997, Carl and
I returned with a group of nine participants. Starting with a
pampered night at Skip Mcwilliams comfortable Copper Canyon Lodge at
Cusarare, we plunged back into the depths of the main Barranca del
Cobre
From a camp part way down in the canyon, we
explored a densely wooded arroyo which showed signs of terracing.
Forcing our way through tangled Arizona cyprus and oak thicket, we
discovered a series of shelter caves with mortared stone storage
rooms. These were sealed with hand carved pine doors secured by a
carefully made wood latch system. Metates (corn grinding stone)
fired clay pots, bowls and the occasional metal can indicated recent
Tarahumara use although no trail was in evidence and the canyon was
impassable without machetes. The overgrown farming plots carved out
of the narrow steep canyon seemed a poor location. Our theory is
that this hidden canyon may have been a refuge and supply depot
during periods of armed conflict such as the rebellion against
Spanish authority and Jesuit missions in the late 17th Century. The
caves may have served as ceremonial sites in recent times or a
spiritual retreat for a few nearby families
Setting a beach side camp at the Urique River
again, we spent several pleasant days climbing side canyons and
examining caves for evidence of pre-Tarahumara occupation. At the
upper end of a steep arroyo some 800 feet above the river, we
located an undercut ledge walled in with field stone and mortar
containing multiple burials. Although the open part of the wall had
been badly disturbed by animals, we found several intact decorated
clay pots, gourd vessels and most interesting of all, a spinning kit
containing a beautifully made spinning whorl. Skeletal remains
appeared to be that of a young adult. After photos, we carefully
replaced everything and sealed off the wall. Although possibly
Tarahumara, I suspect that the burials may date from an earlier time.
Pottery type is similar to a Mogollon like style that we have seen
elsewhere in the Sierra Madre.
November began a new season. Amy and I accompanied
fifteen enthusiastic trekkers, then returned with a smaller group
over Christmas to face El Nino weather at its worst. As sometimes
happens, the heavy snows forced unforeseen but wonderful experiences.
Among other events, we spend a great cultural night all sleeping in
our Mexican staff's adobe farm house and another night at our old
divisidero hot springs camp below trees teaming with ripe oranges.
We however, look forward to the warmer weather of the upcoming March
trips.
We plan addtional trips and explorations for
1998/99 then an `end of the Millennia party', the ultimate
celebration, at Copper canyon Lodges' elegant, restored Vitorian
hacienda at Batopilas.
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