In Search of Machu Picchu 1998

RIDE OR HIKE AS YOU CHOOSE ABOUT THE TRIP: This unique adventure follows a series of forgotten Inca roadways through some of the wildest country in the world.

WE CAREFULLY AVOID 'THE INCA TRAIL' that every tour group and backpacker travels. During event filled days, we travel back in time, traveling through medieval villages, past cascading waterfalls, over high passes and explore remote ancient ruins. Our route traverses the Andes at altitudes between 7,000 and 15,000 feet, taking us well above timberline before finally descending into the high cloud forest. We observe varieties of delicate orchids, rare birds, plants and seldom visited Inca ruins. Ample time is programmed to experience Cusco, key Inca sites and modern Andean culture. As backpacking hoards crowd the guidebook trails,

WE PLAN OUR ROUTE ALONG LITTLE KNOWN, SELDOM TRAVELED ROUTES THAT ONCE WERE THE MAIN ARTERIES OF THE HIGHLAND INCA HOMELAND. By utilizing sturdy mountain horses and mules, we are able to climb over high passes on steep trails that take us beyond the capabilities of most backpackers and trekking groups. Although some may hike the entire trip, the availability of saddle mounts insures arrival for those who may not be quite up to the altitude or distance or who just enjoy riding.

SUITABILITY: This adventure is safari style using packstock to carry all our gear and expedition amenities. A staff of bilingual naturalist guides and local packers accompany a small group of guests. Comfortable camps offer delicious meals in a cozy dining tent and a pan of hot water with a mug of coffee or tea served at your tent to greet each day. The horses are smaller than typical American saddle horses, so a weight limit of 200 lbs. is imposed on participants. Small, comfortable, padded Peruvian saddles are used. If you plan to ride, previous riding experience is not a prerequisite, but due to the rugged terrain, prior familiarity around horses is recommended. We require that all participants be in good health and physical condition. If you plan to walk, the hiking is strenuous over steep trails at high altitude. Some hiking is necessary. We travel up to eight hours on the longest day.

TRIP LEADERS: The operators of Adventure Specialists Peruvian adventure program represent a highly skilled staff of professionals. U.S. based Adventure Specialists and Peru's Manu Expeditions have teamed up to offer a tantalizing variety of exciting and unusual backcountry excursions. Gary Ziegler, founder of Adventure Specialists, has a far flung history which includes a Ph.d in archaeology, archaeological expeditions into remote Peru and Mexico, work for National Geographic, museums and universities. Gary has been organizing and leading expeditions and groups in Peru since 1964. His accomplishments include the first ascent of seven high ice peaks and the discovery of new archaeological sites. He led the first group to bicycle to Machu Picchu in 1982. Managed by internationally recognized ornithologist and explorer, Barry Walker, The Manu Expeditions guides and staff have vast experience. They are logistical wizards who insure trips go smoothly and that guests are expertly attended to. Gary leads our Lost cites research expeditions and climbs while Barry guides special birding trips.

IN SEARCH OF MACHU PICCHU is led by NICOLE ERB and JAMES DIRKS, recognized andean experts and Cusco's most experienced trek leaders.

THE AGENDA: DAY 1 Sun) Depart Miami at 11:50 pm on American flight 2111 for Lima. Our representative will meet your flight as you leave Customs, then see you aboard the Cusco flight.

Day 2 Mon) Morning flight to CUSCO, the ancient capital of the Incas. We greet you at the airport. Following brief orientation and a cup of traditional coca tea, we organize an afternoon introductory trek around town. Most will need the time to rest and recover from yesterday's travel. Refreshed and eager, we meet for dinner at a favorite restaurant. We talk about ancient legends, Manco Inca,the lost cities of Vilcabamba or perhaps just get to know each other. Some my opt for evening festivities in this bustling international city. We lodge in a small quiet family owned bed and breakfast well away from tour groups and big hotels.

Day 3 Tues) Drive by van to the nearby Sacred Valley, location of the major Inca temple/fortress of Ollantaytambo. Probably built by the great Inca ruler, Pachacuti in the 1460s, it was the site of Hernando Pizzaro's defeat by Manco Inca in 1536. Constructed of finely cut polygonal stones and ryolite blocks, the fortress and nearby town represent the best of Inca architecture and construction. Large worked blocks, some weighting as much as100 tons were quarried from a site more than a thousand vertical feet above the valley floor using a technique of pecking with hammer stones, then skidded down and across the Urubamba river several kilometers to the temple site. Inclined ramps were built to raise the blocks several hundred feet up hill to the construction area. We have ample time to examine the complex and ponder its many mysteries. Time and interest permitting, we will also visit the site at Pisac. We overnight at a comfortable small inn in the valley at an altitude of 9000 ft. Clean sheets, traditional Peruvian dinner and chilled, Cusquena beer complete the day.

Day 4 Wed) A short bus ride delivers us to the remains of an old Inca bridge crossing the Urubamba river where we meet our horses and expedition support crew. Our guide gives a riding lesson and trail instructions for the day as duffels and gear are expertly sorted and matched to mule loads by a colorful group of quechua speaking wranglers. Leaving tents and baggage to follow on the mule train, we set off up a winding trail into the remote Cordillera Vilcabamba range accompanied by a wrangler who brings the saddle mounts behind as we climb. We allow the group to split into fast and slow hikers so that each may travel at their own pace. Riders may form a third group. If weather permits, spectacular views of geometric Inca fields dominate the valley below. This is our most difficult day. Starting at 9000 ft., we climb more than 4000 ft. over a pass to camp near an abandoned Inca canal overlooking a vast gorge or quebrada. Travel time is about six hours with an estimated distance of 10 miles. All but the strongest hikers will ride some of this steep route.

Day 5 Thurs) Crossing a high grassy ridge, we follow parts of a Inca trail into a broad glaciated valley below the massive ice walls of Nevado Huayanay where we make an early camp. The staff sets up a large dining tent with table and stools. One or two persons are assigned a four person sleeping tent. Meals are prepared from fresh meats, grains and vegetables. The day begins with coffee or tea served at your tent. Before the evening meal, we enjoy happy hour with popcorn, assorted hot beverages and for those who imbibe, Gary and Barry's famous expedition Absolut vodka martini (shaken, not stirred). This is a short day. A leisurely, late departure following breakfast places us in camp by mid afternoon. Travel time is 5 hours. Camp is at an altitude of 13,600 ft.

Day 6 Fri) Today is unstructured to relax and enjoy this breathtaking setting in the heart of the remote Andes or we may choose to move on to explore a longer route. If we remain here, several options are available. A small herder's village down valley presents opportunity for photos and a view of mountain life. For type A exercisers, a nearby non technical16,000 ft. peak can be climbed or a hike organized up to the glaciers on Nevado Huayanay. In October of 1996, Gary led a group from the Colorado Mountain Club to make a 13 hour long ascent of this18,000 ft. Ice summit which they believe to be a first ascent. But that's a whole different trip...not our cup of tea. Gary plans to return here for another climb. Contact him if this is your th= ing.

Day 7 Sat) Climbing a switchbacking trail over a15000 ft. pass, we follow an old stone paved Inca road to the ruins of Incarakay, a tambo or way station on the royal highway. Our guide explains that this is classic tambo design with several houses, wasi and storehouses, qollqa inclosed by an outside wall or kancha. Gary believes that this route was the original `Inca Trail' that connected Machu Picchu with Cusco. A traditional lunch of coca tea, boiled potatoes, roasted corn and avocado salad served inside the ancient walls fuels us for the afternoon journey. We continue winding down a steep head wall to camp below three waterfalls at the end of a great glacier carved valley. We have now completed a circle around the Huayanay massive. Ice covered towers crown the valley. We set our tents beside the ruin of several Inca houses. Remains of ancient stone corrals surround the camp. This high pampa was probably a place for breeding and raising of llamas used for carrying supplies along the royal road and meat (the English jerky comes from the Quechua word charki meaning dried llama meat).

Day 8 Sun) The day breaks bright and sunny (we hope). After several cups of coffee and breakfast of fruit, yogurt and hot cakes, we pack our duffle for the waiting mules and set off down valley. As we descend in altitude, herder's huts and small farms chakrasbecome numerous. We pass grazing cows, barking dogs and children coming and going along the trail. Lunch is set along side of the interesting Inca site of Paucarkanca .Reflecting the Inca genius for enhancing natural topography and blending design with in site stone, Paucarkanca is a classic example of early `Frank Lloyd Wright' architecture. The site dominates a ridge dividing two major valley at the junction of two Inca roads. Large U shaped terraces andenessurround two kancasinclosing a number of well made field and worked stone houses. The construction appears to reflect the shape of the ridge and mountain rising above. The site probably served as a control point and tambobut also may have served as residence for someone important. We have ample time to explore, speculate and share observations. Entering the major Pampakahuana Valley, we continue down a well traveled trail to the start of the infamous backpacker muchilero`Inca Trail' near kilometro 88 and the Urubamba river. Camp is set in a eucalyptus grove near another extensive Inca site, llactapata.Today, we have travelled about 12 miles, mostly downhill.

Day 9 Mon) Bidding horses, mules, cooks and wranglers goodby, we cross the roaring Urubamba River on the new government suspension bridge in time to catch the morning narrow gauge train heading down valley. An interesting hour of click, clack and sway with all of the accompanying sounds and smells of rural Peru takes us to our final destination, Machu Picchu. and the bustling backpacker town of Aguascaliente located some 2,000 ft, below Hiram Bingham's great 1910 discovery.