|
Tonga is still
ruled by a much-esteemed monarchy, the only kingdom in the South
Pacific. King Taufa’ahau Tupuo IV celebrated his 78th birthday the
day after I arrived on the main island of Tongatapu, and over 20
decorated arches made from bamboo and coconut trunks had been erected
between the airport and capital Nuku’alofa. Tongans are also devout
church goers. The next day is Sunday and Ma’a and 'Epeli, both
members of the Baha’i faith, do not go spear fishing. Instead we
strike South to one of the outer islands. Lua Ui, through warm rain
and flocks of feeding seabirds called noddies. The forest of this
tiny island is alive with the sound of roosting birds and while
snorkelling we are trailed by an inquisitive reef shark.
The next day we snorkel around another
island and 'Epeli and Ma’a, re-united with their Hawaiian spears,
discover a reef shark dozing under a large coral. There is much
excited talking in Tongan and a succession of exploratory duck dives.
After more debate 'Epeli counsels Ma’a not to attempt to add shark
to the menu. Instead, after setting up camp on the populated island
of Ta’unga, we do a vegetarian curry and walk to the nearby village
to take part in a kava ceremony.
Kava is made from the ground root of
the pepper plant and is mixed into a dirty dish washing water type of
consistency in a plastic pail before being transferred to a
ceremonial wooden bowl. There is much singing and signalling by claps
as the communal coconut drinking vessel is passed around. Kava is a
mild anaesthetic and analgesic, but apart from momentarily numbing
the tongue has little noticeable effect. I do note, however, that 'Epeli
and Ma’a arrived back at camp several hours later than anyone else
and appeared a little "faka piko piko" (lazy) the next day.
Conveniently, we have a leisurely start, waiting for the tide and an
easy day’s paddling to ‘Ano Beach were we are treated to an umu
feast and dancing by the local villagers. After six days on a seafood
and vegetarian diet I find the pork crackling particularly agreeable.
I have also developed a taste for the front cockpits of double kayaks
while the rest of the group take turns in the Southern Aurora, Arluk
and Puffin singles.
As they indulge in now common-place
water fights I hang back with Doug and Sharon and unravel how a
Canadian couple, living in Waitati, near Dunedin over summer, came to
be operating a sea kayaking business in Tonga. They had been involved
in kayaking, mainly white water and wave surfing, while living in
British Columbia. So after a spell touring and working in New Zealand,
it seemed a natural idea to bring a folding kayak and holiday in
Vava’u. On their second trip in 1990 they got serious about the
idea of running a business, obtained permits, found their Tongan
partners and imported the boats. Now in their fifth year of operation,
they cater mainly for New Zealand groups, but also provide the kayaks
and guides to North American tour operators and run day trips for
tourists.
Doug says the rewards of the job are
three-fold: making dream holidays happen, watching people develop
confidence and competence in kayaks, and bringing two cultures closer
together. "People don’t have the time or logistics to organise
this kind of thing themselves." he says.
Our last camp is on the island of
Umuna on the eastern edge of the group. From its summit we watch surf
batter against limestone cliffs. Brown booby chicks nest just above
the spray zone, while parents soar overhead. Hundreds of flying fox
bats hang from kapok and pandanus trees and the forest floor is
spongy underfoot from the needles of sheoak pines. In the centre of
the island we descend a tomo, helped by the Tarzan-like vines, and
swim in the brackish water at its base. The soft light of evening and
a spectacular sunset are replaced by a brilliant starry night. Just
as I turn in I spot 'Epeli and Ma’a’s underwater torches
returning from the reef.
For breakfast we pull sweet tasting
flesh from fish known as O (I checked with Ma’a that it has just
one letter) laid over the dying embers of the fire. We raft up for a
team photo before the last day, then after an hour’s paddling tow
the kayaks while snorkelling along the edge of a reef which drops off
into deep, blue water. Fish of all sizes, colours and shapes shelter
among the corals. One of our group, Linda, is on her second trip with
the Friendly Islands Kayak Company. The first was for just three days,
and she says eight days on the water has brought added rewards.
This year the company has started
offering trips to the Ha’apai Islands, a sparsely populated group
and proposed world heritage site, about half way between Tongatapu
and Vava’u. It is a move designed to cater for the keen interest in
return visits.
A day after, after a brief stop on
Ha’apai’s simple runway, I spot a pair of humpback whales
breaching in one of the myriad of emerald channels through the coral.
My face pushed up against the plane’s perspex window, I find it
hard to imagine not coming back to paddle these paradise islands.
(This article is contributed by Friendly
Islands Kayak Company - Editor.)
|
Categories