Camping on the Roof of Thailand

The hottest time of the year in Chiang Mai is April and May. Temperatures can easily exceed 40 degrees Centigrade by mid-afternoon. There is a place very close to Chiangmai where you can escape the heat and enjoy some of the finest natural scenery in the Kingdom and that is Doi Inthanon National Park.

Each year my wife and I pack up our gear, load it on our little 100cc Honda Dream, and head for the mountains. We like to go the first week in May after the Mango rains in mid to late April. The so called Mango rains is a period of about one week when the weather changes from the cool to the hot season which causes brief heavy rain showers. This rain causes the vegetation, a dingy brown color because of lack of rain for several months, to turn to a lush green.

When we departed Chiangmai at 9 am it was already 35 degrees C. but the cool breeze while riding the motor bike the short 1 1/2 hours to the park was refreshing. We left Chiangmai by highway 108 through Hang Dong and Sanpatong and then about one kilometer before Chom Tong turned right on highway 1009. There is a big sign in English stating "Doi Inthanon" where you turn so it's easy to find. Continue 8 kilometers to where the road forks and then keep to the right where you will see the park entrance. The entrance fee is 10 baht and they have free maps and information for you that you will need. A copy of the park map can be seen online and might be a useful reference as you read this article.

Your first stop should be the Visitor's Center a kilometer or so past the park entrance on the left side. There they have more information and many exhibits and a slide show about the park in English. You need to know the park rules that levy stiff fines if broken (such as for picking flowers); these rules are written on the back of all the maps and brochures.

After getting all the information we needed we headed straight to the Park Headquarters at Kilometer marker 31. As we approached the booth for accommodations reservations both we noticed a thermometer and found it was a perfect 26 degrees C. We decided to spend our first night in a tent and second night in a bungalow. We made our reservations and rented our tent for 60 baht and 4 blankets at 15 baht each. Since we were going to ride around the park the park ranger kept our bags for us and we proceeded to the camp grounds to pitch our tent.

The camp grounds are in a pine tree forest with toilets and shower facilities. There is a guard box at the entrance and in the evenings the guard lets in only those who are camping or have bungalow reservations on the grounds. Since you are not allowed to pick up fire wood you can ask the camp ground attendant and he will supply the wood for you.

After putting up the tent we were getting hungry and headed back to the Park Headquarters where they have two restaurants and small store. The store also has tents and blankets to rent for the same price as the park. You can also purchase bottled water, soda, beer, film, batteries and snacks and souvenirs. The restaurants are open from 7 am to 8 pm serving delicious Thai food at great prices. While having lunch we were told that a 7 man soccer match was being played this afternoon on the soccer field next to the restaurant on the Park Headquarters grounds. The match was between a Karen hill tribe village and a Hmong hill tribe village located in the park so we stayed and watched the action under the shade trees drinking ice cold beer. We made plans to do some hiking on the Gew Mae Pan Trail near the Doi Inthanon summit (above 2000 meters tomorrow) so today was for relaxing, which I myself am very good at doing.

Just before dark we ate our dinner, got our things from the park ranger and went to our camp grounds. In May there aren't many people in the park so a secluded place to put our tent was easy to find. We built a nice camp fire and I spent the evening reading while my wife did her crochet. The only sound was that of the crickets and with the smell of pine and clean fresh air drifting off to sleep was a total pleasure I haven't experienced in many months while living in the crowded city. The next morning we awoke early and packed up the tent and returned it to the park ranger and again he kept our bags for us. I checked the thermometer and it was a cool 18 degrees C.

We ate our breakfast and headed toward the summit passing fruit and flower stands owned by Hmong hill tribe people. Here we stopped to have a look and across the street were green houses filled with beautiful flowers. The growing of flowers is a Royal Project so the hill tribe people can live in harmony with the park's conservation plans instead of doing their traditional slash and burn farming.

The 2.5 kilometer Gew Mae Pan Trail begins about half a kilometer past the twin Chedis at kilometer marker 42. We decided to leave our motor bike at the Chedi and walk the horseshoe shaped trail to the end and return the same way. This turned out to be a good idea as the mountains were covered with mist and clouds and the view although beautiful was limited on our way out. On the way back the clouds had lifted and the view was spectacular.

The two Chedis named Napamaytanindol Chedi are a work of art. Built for the occasion of King Bhumipol's 60th birthday, two Chedis were built. One for His Majesty and the other for Queen Sirikit. When you visit the Chedis make sure you are wearing long pants or skirt and shirt or blouse. Refreshments and lunch can be purchased here but are expensive. Just behind the Lavender colored Chedi dedicated to Queen Sirikit the Gew Mae Pan Trail begins. There is no marker but you will be able to find it.

The trail begins through dense forest with lush ferns and moss covering the tree trunks. Wild orchids and colorful birds are plentiful. It's uphill most of the way, crossing streams and climbing over and ducking under logs. The temperature is perfect for hiking and the sounds of the many birds and creeks are very enjoyable.