Lasting Impressions

Lasting Impressions with Colonial Pacific

There was a shout of surprised excitement as my four guests looked down from the twin engined Piper Navajo to the dusty little airstrip below. I had been pointing out the homestead of the Australian Outback cattle station, our overnight stop, when six or seven wild camels - bulls, cows and a couple of calves - had decided to choose this moment to walk up out of the dry river bed and cross the airstrip.

I nudged Mark, a pilot of some 14 years experience in these parts, and he placed his powerful machine in position for a low sweep over the homestead - the signal out here which means "I want to land but can you go and look at your airstrip!" In a few moments the required response had been achieved and a young kid on a motorbike was chasing the camels back into the desert from whence they came. Feral camels have been prospering in this area since being released in the late 1920’s when the railway finally replaced the Afghan camel trains. Australia consequently has the finest herds of wild camels in the world - even the Saudi Royal Family seeks the bloodlines from these desert areas to strengthen their own herds.

One more low pass to make extra sure all was clear and then we prepared for landing. Skimming over the treetops Mark dropped the aircraft at the last moment and then brought it into a comfortable contact with the dusty earth - people are often surprised how soft and smooth a dirt airstrip landing can be. We taxied to where a station truck and a couple of pickups were parked and placed our machine neatly alongside - you know, just visiting friends.

I have been personally hosting and showing overseas visitors around Australia and New Zealand for some 20 years and, for those who can afford the time, an encounter with the people of the Outback is always one of the most memorable experiences.

My guests on this occasion were Don and Sandra from Atlanta (where Don teaches medicine and Sandra is a financial advisor) and Frank and Mollie from small town West Virginia where they own and run a pretty successful catering operation which employs over 300 people. The four have been friends for years and often travel together for leisure.

My other friends here were the owners of this two million acre spread in the Northern Territory, Victor (Lofty to everyone except his Mum) and Sally Wilson. A native Territorian is about as common as a native Alaskan - almost everyone has come from ‘down south’ in the last 10-15 years, but Lofty was born here - right here that is - on the actual property his father and grandfather ran, so that makes him not only unusual, but also very highly respected as far as the local Aboriginal people are concerned. Lofty proposed marriage to Sally when they were about 14 - she didn’t accept for some 10 years but they’ve been together here - raising five boys - ever since.

We are welcomed into their sprawling, low, homestead. Summers here can be hot so the house is built with wide enclosed verandahs. The construction is of cool white limestone and the place is comfortable and roomy - at the same time practical and gracious. The main kitchen has an immense slow combustion stove - converted to oil, for timber is scarce here - and the spacious ‘everyday’ kitchen has one entire wall which is a refrigerator. Then there is still a walk-in cool room and store in an outbuilding. When the nearest supermarket is some 300 miles away one has to adapt.

Though rooms brim with prized trophies and antiques, there is no such thing as formality out here. "We prefer people just take us as they find us" explains Sally. Because visits are private and by pre-arranged invitation only, it works well. In fact my guests have always felt totally at ease with the Wilsons - as have I. It’s not like some English bed and breakfast where the hostess fusses over you and you don’t know where to sit. The station has the homely, relaxed atmosphere of a remote lodge and the ambience of a fine private club - and your hosts are as interested in you, as you are in them.

Meals are casual and hearty, with everyone, from owner to a new hand, all sitting at the one large table. In such remote areas the art of fine conversation is an essential skill for all - like finding the way home after dark.

The evening meal was a fine cut of home grown, free range lean beef, salads and home made bread - all accompanied by an excellent ’84 Cabernet from the Barossa. This was followed by the classic Australian dessert - Pavlova - for those who haven’t had it, a sort of meringue topped with fresh fruits - Kiwi, strawberries - and creams.