The summer was glorious. The sun sparkled on the
water between the islands of Stockholm and the outdoor cafes were
crowded for two full months. Stockholm, "the city that floats
on water" as the Swedish novelist Selma Lageröf called the
capital of Sweden was glimmering like a jewel in the setting sun.
This is the way to experience this beautiful city - by bike and by
boat, I thought to myself as I pedaled slowly along the shores of
Stockholm.
I invite you to join me in the summer of 2000, on
a combined bicycle and boat tour in and around Stockholm.
Imagine that you have just arrived in the city of
Stockholm. The city sprawls gracefully over 14 islands right between
the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren. You'll be introduced to "the
Venice of the North" by a walk in the oldest part of the city,
Gamla Stan. It is on this island where Stockholm began sometime
before the 13th century. You'll stroll between rust colored and
yellow buildings that line the narrow lanes that were laid out in
the Middle Ages . Today the streets bustle with life from cafes and
restaurants. In the center of the Old Town is Stortorget. In this
square the famous " Stockholm Bloodbath" was staged by the
Danish king, Christian, in 1520, in his effort to intimidate the
Swedish nobility and regain control of the country. It is said that
on rainy November day you can still see the blood flow in the
gutters.
But let's take a break from history and enjoy this
summer evening. The lingering light in the sky, that very special
illumination of northern latitudes is one of the reasons I return to
my old country every summer. This exquisite light lends a sense of
timelessness to the evenings, a sense of extended days and endless
possibilities.
On our second day we'll board a steamer that
brings us to the town of Sigtuna. Settling in on the deck among the
other sun- worshipping Swedes, we enjoy the sights of sweeping bays,
narrow straits and rocky shores. Lake Mälaren, to the west of
Stockholm, is Sweden's third largest lake. The countryside abounds
with historical sites, castles, palaces and Viking remains.
Just as we begin to feel ready for lunch our
steamer pulls up at the town dock. We have entered another era. The
idyllic town of Sigtuna is like a story book town. In fact one of
our most beloved author/ illustrators of children's' books, Elsa
Beskow, used this town as a backdrop for her stories. However, this
sleepy little town with crooked lanes and quaint wooden houses was
once an important commercial center. During the Viking period
merchant ships from as far away as Asia dropped anchor here.
Monasteries and abbeys competed with one another in building the
most glorious churches in town. Today the ruins provide a cultural
focus, as do the summer evening concerts at the gazebo on the green.
We get on our bicycles and leave the idyllic town
of Sigtuna behind. The road winds through one of Sweden's oldest
cultural farming land in a lush landscape of rolling hills and
fields. As we approach the baroque palace of Skokloster we are
greeted by a pair of medieval clad monks. This is the week of the
Skokloster festival, and the fields outside the white castle have
been turned into a medieval village, complete with knights,
craftsmen, food and games. Skokloster castle is unique. Everything
still stands where it always has, as if time stood still for some
300 years.
Before we head south to the town of Strängnäs we
make a brief visit at a remarkable small church. Thanks to an
impoverished parish, the vault in the church of Härkeberga was
never white washed, a common practice during the Reformation. Today
we marvel at the unique and intricate medieval paintings that give
us a glimpse into the life and mythology of the people in the
1400's.
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