At Home In Portugal

Before class began, we ventured into the lush gardens to pick the herbs to be used during class. Victor then escorted us into the newly constructed teaching kitchen with doors opening out onto the terrace; a light breeze with softly falling raindrops outside. Much to our surprise, Victor disappeared up inside the large fireplace, emerging with links of sausages draped over his arms. After making sausages, Victor hangs them to smoke above the corkwood used in cooking. We began by tasting a variety of sausages, local goat cheeses and a marvelous local red wine: D'Avillez 1996 from Portalegra in Alentejo. The sausages were scored and then flamed with Portuguese vodka to enhance the flavor. Victor flavored olives with oregano, rosemary, sliced garlic and covered with olive oil. These were accompanied by the most fabulous bread I have ever eaten. Zefa, Victor's third hand in the kitchen made all of the breads that were free formed into rolls or large loaves, some containing bits of sausage. Dipped in olive oil, these were to die for!

Now our work began as Victor encouraged us to participate in the preparation of the meal. For a starter, as if we needed anything else all day after indulging in the appetizers, we cleaned, floured and fried small sardines in olive oil. These we covered with a preparation of sliced onions and garlic and sautйed until translucent, then added a julienne of carrots and bay leaves and cooked until tender. After sprinkling with vinegar and tossing with cilantro, these were served at room temperature. In the days before refrigeration, this starter could be held several days in a cool room on top of a cool marble table. As it is nearly impossible to get fresh sardines at home, Victor allowed that this same method could be used with any small whole fish. We also prepared Cilarca, a seasonal fresh mushroom similar to Porcini, by chopping, sautйing in a little oil, cooking with stirred eggs until soft and sprinkled with fresh thyme.

The main course consisted of a fabulous leg of baby lamb, one for each of us! We made a paste of garlic, olive oil, rosemary, paprika and bay leaf in a mortar and pestle and brushed it on to the leg of lamb. A processor could be substituted, but the texture and flavor would not be the same. The lamb was placed on a bed of sliced carrots, onions, egg plant, zucchini, mushrooms and several stalks of asparagus, in a terra cotta baking dish I would love to own, and drizzled with ample olive oil. After placing a bouquet of fresh parsley, rosemary and sage on top and sprinkling liberally with chopped cilantro, Victor placed the dish in the oak wood fire for approximately 1 hour until tender (at home we would use a 350-degree oven). Half way through the baking, Victor poured on white wine, nearly enough to cover. When ready to serve, we dove into it with gusto, plenty of bread and a fabulous local red wine.

As in all cooking classes, dessert is the crowning glory. For this, we made Sere Caia, a 17th century dessert for weddings of the royalty as a sign of peace. With a quick flick of the wrist, Victor mixed together several slightly beaten egg yolks, sugar, milk and flour into which he gently folded in beaten egg whites. We buttered a baking dish, poured in the mixture, sprinkled with cinnamon on top and baked for 10-15 minutes until it became the texture of a souffle. This was served with preserved plums in a honey-sugar syrup. For me, small tastings of Moscatel de Setabal and Pousada Porta, aged for 20 years in wood was the perfect ending to the meal. Dick enjoyed Adega Velha da Casa d'Alvelleda, a nice flavored grappa. I will take his word for it. The entire meal was a sample of the wonderful week ahead and an ending to a most fabulous day.

We couldn't wait for the remaining classes centered on the regional produce and cuisine of the Alentejo and the Algarve and to make our own fabulous loaf of bread. But first there was much more exploring to do. Sofia took us to the Esporao Wine Estate for a tasting of Portuguese varietals and to Monsaraz, a Renaissance village with a 13th century castle all set inside a massive wall built in the 17th century. In Redondo we saw a beautiful 16th century church and spent all our cash in the small stores selling the famous ceramics of the region. Estremoz, surrounded by 17th century ramparts, overlooked a vast plain of gnarled olive trees and wheat fields. Here we found unglazed ceramic water jars of unusual shapes and other ceramic pieces.

My favorite excursion was to Evora, a beautiful town known as a kind of Portuguese Florence, a UNESCO world treasure. Evora thrived in Roman times and even coined its own money. During the 14th to 16th centuries, royalty spent as much time here as in Lisbon, making it a city filled with palaces, churches and art. When the Spanish took over Portugal in 1579, Evora was left forgotten, keeping it intact for us to enjoy today. During the last week of June, the Fair of Sao Joao is held featuring folk dancing, local foods and crafts. The 12th century Cathedral is a must to see, along with the Templo de Diana built in the 2nd century. It is was a treat to walk the streets immersed in a gentler time. Here we sampled sheep milk cheeses, figs, almonds and sausages sold in the local stores.

Sofia also took us to an ancient roman ruin now being restored, Ruinas di Cucafate, named for a saint slaughtered in Barcelona. We stood beside a 2000-year-old olive tree contemplating what might have been. The road in back linked cities in the 1st century to Rome. Among the ruins was a large house, pool, spa and a temple. For lunch we stopped at Taverna do Tome, filled with old wine barrels brought by the Romans. Here farmers and old men gather in the bar for drinks. We dined on a selection of local red wine, olives, bread and fresh goat cheese. In the winter fried sardines are served. The locals spend many pleasurable hours here, often with the accompaniment of live music.

Each morning for breakfast we gathered in the dining room where we were greeted with a huge baskets of fabulous breads, ham, cheese, fruits, freshly squeezed juices, cereals, plates of bacon, freshly scrambled eggs and latte in huge white cups; Just what we needed to gather energy for our next class! Dinner is served in the understated elegance of the dining room. The bi-level dining room boasts domed ceilings quietly meeting the white washed walls, beautiful granite block floors all reflected in large mirrors framed with dark oak. Simplicity was accentuated with white table linens, huge urns of greenery, and green filled centerpieces of wrought iron and glass vases. As I sat enjoying watching the diners enter, I was afforded a view onto the patio with gleaming white walls in the sun light, a huge fig tree just in front. The patio was set for dining al fresco, the same patio from which the teaching kitchen is entered.

Beginning with a fabulous 1993 Monte da Ferra red wine from the Alentejo, Victor served our dinner. The first coarse was a trio of salads: tuna with black eyed peas, garbanzos with codfish and roasted peppers, each typical of the region. Grilled Cilarca mushrooms drizzled with local olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt followed. We had enjoyed these same mushrooms in the eggs during class, but this preparation was heavenly. The mushrooms are found only in the spring growing under 2 species of cork oak trees. I could have ended the meal with these delicious morsels, but Victor had much more to share.

Cod fish, typical of Portugal, was served on top of sliced potatoes and garnished with fried fresh garlic, carrot and beet slices. A delectable olive butter spread was served with bread freshly baked that morning by Zefa. The main course was a stuffed duck breast and a miga of day old bread stuffing garnished with rosemary, paprika, and dried orange slices atop a sauce made of the reduction of the duck juices. If dieting is your thing, you will have to forgo this absolutely fabulous but terribly rich dish.

Dessert was another trio of choices: a baked simple concoction of eggs, milk, sugar and cinnamon served with strawberries, apple cake and a nut cake full of almonds and hazelnuts. Of course we had to sample all three.

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