Once in the city, and despite its size and the maze of its souks, Marrakesh is not too hard to navigate. The broad, open space of Djemaa El Fna lies right at the heart of the Medina , and almost everything of interest is concentrated in the web of alleyways north and south of the square. Just to the west of the Djemaa El Fna is the unmistakeable landmark of the Koutoubia minaret - in the shadow of which begins Avenue Mohammed V , leading out through the Medina walls at Bab Nkob and up the length of the French-built new city, Gueliz . Only in the souks might you want to consider taking a guide, and you'll have plenty of offers.

The ONMT tourist office , now referred to as the Délégué Régional du Tourisme, is on Place Abdelmoumen Ben Ali (tel 04/443 6239) and the Syndicat d'Initiative, now referred to as APOTM (Association Provinciale des Opérateurs de Tourisme de Marrakech) is at 170 Av. Mohammed V (no phone). Both are open Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm, Sat 9am-noon. The ONMT occasionally houses an exhibition of local art, otherwise both offices offer little information of any use.