Just about every downtown corner has somewhere to snack , whether you're after hotpots, steamers of small, soft baozi, cakes or a seasonal choice of fresh fruit. At night, Zhongshan Lu is the most popular place for street stalls serving quick-fried shrimps, grilled chicken wings, steamed packets of lotus-wrapped zongzi with unusual fillings (a mix of pork, beans and sometimes shredded coconut), dog hotpot and plates of juicy snails. There are also swarms of low-price restaurants near the bus and train stations, and along Gonghe Lu, with canteen-style selections at ¥5-10 a plate. Formal restaurant times are around 11am-2pm and 5-8pm.

Serious nightlife has yet to raise its head in Nanning, but the Packo Bar on Xinmin Lu promises draught beer, light live music and - according to their promotional package - "American table dance".

Dumpling house , Hua Dong Lu. Bright, wooden decor and a host of small-plate snacks - peanuts, honey chicken, shredded spiced potatoes, pickled vegetables - though their delicious shuijiao in ¥10-30 platefuls are de rigeur, along with a beer or pot of tea.

Fengyuan Seafood Restaurant , Hainan Lu. Large, upmarket restaurant where you pick your meal from the tank; big spenders may want to try 500g of lobster at ¥280 or crab at ¥150, but there's also a very popular ¥15 eat-all-you-can buffet served in the mornings.

Hongying Hui , Minsheng Lu. Roughly opposite the Nanning Hotel, this is the best in a group of inexpensive restaurants here serving Cantonese stir-fries, roast duck and chicken. They also have tasty fish casseroles and rice claypots at lunchtime.

Huiren , Minsheng Lu. Barely furnished, inexpensive Muslim restaurant, with soup-noodle canteen in the front and dining hall behind. Their limited English menu is based on the most popular fare, so if you see somebody eating something interesting, point and order. The beef and green peppers is good, as is aubergine with chillies.

Xiaodulai Shijie , east of the Nanning Hotel, with entrances in Gonghe Lu and Minsheng Lu. What look like temple gates front this excellent place, where you can choose from a wide range of dumplings, spiced noodles, cold meats, small meals, and soups. Everything is on display, so just point if you can't ask.