Foreign fatalities resulting from the suppression of independence movements in Irian and Timor, and the urban violence which surrounded the political and religious upheavals of the last couple of years, all undermine the idea that Indonesia is a safe place to travel. However, it's also true that serious incidents involving Westerners are rare. Petty theft , however, is a fact of life, so don't flash around expensive jewellery or watches. Don't hesitate to check that doors and windows - including those in the bathroom - are secure before accepting accommodation ; if the management seems offended by this, you probably don't want to stay there anyway. Some guesthouses and hotels have safe-deposit boxes.

If you're unlucky enough to get mugged , never resist and, if you disturb a thief, raise the alarm rather than try to take them on. Be especially aware of pickpockets on buses or bemos, who usually operate in pairs: one will distract you while another does the job. Afterwards, you'll need a police report for insurance purposes. In smaller villages where police are absent, ask for assistance from the headman. Try to take along someone to translate, though police will generally do their best to find an English speaker. You may also be charged "administration fees", the cost of which is open to sensitive negotiations. Have nothing to do with drugs in Indonesia. The penalties are tough, and you won't get any sympathy from consular officials. If arrested, ring your embassy immediately.