A further 412km east of Sintang, the ramshackle little frontier town of PUTUSSIBAU is situated at the point where the Sungai Sibau empties into the Kapuas, and serves as an important base for exploration of the interior. There are also a couple of Iban longhouses just a few kilometres upriver from Putussibau that still retain a fairly traditional lifestyle, though they have been receiving tourists for years. The Melapi I longhouse and the Sayut are said to be the most impressive. Boat owners will approach you offering a guided tour of four or five longhouses: Rp50,000 for a day-trip, plus Rp20,000 if you want to stay the night - don't forget to bring presents, and remember that Iban etiquette dictates that you should only enter the longhouse when invited.

Much of Putussibau, including most of the market, stands on stilts on the riverbank. There are a couple of hotels here, including the Gautama floating hotel (under $5), where you'll gain an insight into the daily life of the itinerant market traders, fishermen and prostitutes, but don't expect much comfort or privacy. Overlooking the Gautama, the Aman Sentosa on Jalan Diponegoro (tel 0567/21533; under $5) is more conventional and comfortable. The centrally located Marissa Hotel (under $5) also has decent rooms.