RANTEPAO
is a prosperous market town on the rocky banks of
Sungai Sadan
, home to both the Sadan Toraja and, for half the year, swarms of foreigners. However unfavourably you view this, Rantepao has excellent facilities and a couple of sites within walking distance. West of the exhibition grounds and away from the couple of main streets, stalls supply locals' day-to-day needs - heavy stone rice mortars, plastic chairs, noodles, fish (couriered up from the coast by motorbike every morning), fresh noodles and tempeh, and chillies, with a warung or two for fried bananas and coffee. Rantepao's main
market
- the biggest in Tanah Toraja and located 2.5km northeast of the centre at Terminal Bolu - is a must: where else could you pick up a bargain buffalo then celebrate your purchase with a litre or two of palm wine? It operates on a six-day cycle, and an entry fee of Rp2000 is demanded of foreigners.
An easy hour's
walk from Rantepao
follows Jalan Singki west across the river, and then bears right into the fields along the Sadan's west bank. Across the paddy, hamlets such as
Pa'bontang
are marked by stately tongkonan, but look for where a white mausoleum at
TAMBOLANG
stands below a cliff-side niche sporting rows of tau-tau and coffins. A path leads briefly south from here and then climbs through woodland to the summit of
Bukit Singki
and a view over Rantepao.