Torajans have two favourite beverages: locally grown arabica coffee, and balok , or palm wine, sold frothing in bamboo tubes. Bars such as the Tiku Linu, upstairs above the souvenir shops on Jalan Andi Mapanyukki, have loud music and are popular with Torajan youth, and foreigners who venture in are made welcome.

Indograce , Jl Andi Mapanyukki. Inexpensive Chinese food in spacious and bright surroundings, and the coldest beer in town.

Island Café , 3km north of Rantepao past Tallunglipu ("Pangli" bemo). Riverside open-air restaurant with a mix of Indonesian and pricey Western dishes.

Lisher , Jl Andi Mapanyukki 107. Good food, particularly Torajan items, and some of the lowest restaurant prices in town, but staff regard customers as a nuisance.

Martaallo café , Jl Ahmad Yani. Reasonably-priced place serving Torajan staples and a delicious toffee caramel.

Rainbow , at Pondok Pelangi, Jl Pengangunan 11. Slow service, but a fine kitchen; try the garlic beans and chewy buffalo sate.

Rimiko , Jl Andi Mapanyukki 115. Restaurant with small and overpriced Indonesian and Torajan menu, but nevertheless serving some excellent food; their chicken curry is something to write home about.

Setia Kawan , Jl Andi Mapanyukki 32. Slightly pricey Indonesian-Chinese place, but a favourite spot for Westerners to sit for an hour over a coffee or cold drink and peruse the newspapers.