Festivals ( matsuri ) still play a central role in many Japanese communities. Most are Shinto in origin and mark important occasions in the agricultural cycle, re-enact historic events or honour elements of the local economy, such as sewing needles or silkworms. Since every shrine and temple observes its own festivals, in addition to national celebrations the chances are you'll stumble across a matsuri at some stage during your visit. However, if you get the chance, it's worth trying to take in one of the major festivals, some of which are described below.

Matsuri (meaning both "festival" and "worship") can take many forms, from stately processions in period costume to sacred dances, fire rituals, archery contests, phallus worship or poetry-writing competitions. The best are riotous occasions where mikoshi (portable shrines) are shouldered by a seething, chanting crowd, usually fortified with quantities of sake and driven on by resonating drums. Don't stand back - anyone prepared to enter into the spirit of things will be welcome. However, if you are heading for any of the famous festivals, make sure you've got your transport and accommodation sorted out well in advance.

Though not such a lively affair, by far the most important event in the Japanese festive calendar is the New Year festival of renewal, Oshogatsu . It's mainly a time for family reunions, and most of the country - bar public transport - closes down for at least the first three days of the year, with many people taking the whole week off work (roughly December 27 to January 4). Whilst Japanese traditionally celebrated the lunar New Year, since the Meiji government adopted the Western calendar in 1873, the festivities have been moved to January 1. According to the Japanese system of numbering years, starting afresh with each change of emperor, 2001 is the thirteenth year of Heisei - Heisei being the official name of Emperor Akihito's reign.

In recent years, several non-Japanese festivals have been catching on, with a few adaptations for local tastes. Only women give men gifts on Valentine's Day (February 14), usually chocolates, while on White Day (March 14) men get their turn to give their loved ones more chocolates (white, of course), perfume or racy underwear. Another import is Christmas , celebrated in Japan as an almost totally commercial event, with carols, plastic holly and tinsel in profusion and, for some reason, endless recitals of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony. Christmas Eve , rather than New Year, is the time to party and a big occasion for romance - you'll be hard-pressed to find a table at any restaurant or a room in the top hotels.