In the days leading up to New Year, generally known as Oshogatsu , Japan succumbs to a frenzy of cleaning as last year's bad luck is swept away. People decorate their rooms, doorways and even car radiators with bamboo and pine sprigs, and visit temple fairs to buy lucky charms such as rakes, arrows and daruma dolls - the chubby little red fellow with staring white eyes; the idea is to make a wish while drawing in one eye and complete the other when it comes true. Shops also do well, as everyone gets a new haircut or a new kimono, buys bundles of the obligatory New Year cards and generally lays in food to tide them over the coming festivities. Fortunately, traditional year-end bonuses help cover the costs, but often less welcome are the interminable rounds of aptly named "forget the year" parties ( bonen-kai ) when groups of colleagues, club members and friends consume enough alcohol to wipe out any bad memories or ill luck from the previous year.

By the time New Year's Eve arrives, everyone's exhausted. So nowadays, at 9pm, the whole nation flops down to watch a three-hour TV extravaganza of the best - and less memorable - pop groups from the previous year. Those with only mild hangovers might slurp a bowl of toshi-koshi soba , extra-long noodles symbolizing longevity, which traditionally form the last meal of the year, and then hurry off to the nearest shrine or temple to join the crowds waiting to make their first offerings of the New Year. Temple bells ring out 108 times to cast out the 108 human frailties; the last chime heralds the New Year and a clean slate.

The first shrine visit ( hatsu-mode ), the first meal, the first drive - each activity in the new year must be performed properly and safely to ensure good luck. On the first day, families share a celebratory meal , prepared earlier since no-one's supposed to work for the first three days, consisting of symbolic foods. It starts with a toast of sweet sake mixed with medicinal herbs, designed to confer long-life, followed by a feast including herring roe (prosperity and fertility), black beans (good health), chestnuts (success) and mochi . These sticky-rice cakes are usually served with vegetables in a special soup ( ozoni ); they may not look - or taste - much, but mochi are said to ensure strength, stamina and, again, longevity.

The traditional New Year's greeting is akemashite ome gozaimasu , and it's customary for adults to give the children of friends and family envelopes containing several thousand yen in crisp notes.