At the top end of the eating spectrum is Japan's finest and most expensive style of cooking, kaiseki-ryori , comprising a series of small, carefully balanced and expertly presented dishes. It began as an accompaniment to the tea ceremony and still retains the meticulous design of that simple, elegant ritual. At the best kaiseki-ryori restaurants the atmosphere of the room in which the meal is served is just as important as the food; you'll sit on tatami , a scroll decorated with calligraphy will hang in the tokonoma (alcove) and a waitress in kimono will serve each course on beautiful china and lacquerware. For such a sublime experience you should expect to pay ¥10,000 or more for dinner, although a lunchtime kaiseki bento is a more affordable option.