The Kintai-kyo is roughly midway between Ikawunki's Shinkansen and local train stations. Shinkansen stop at Shin-Iwakuni Station, twenty minutes by bus west of the bridge, while trains on the JR Sanyo line stop at Iwakuni Station, a twenty-minute bus journey east of the centre. Buses from both stations are operated by both the Shiden bus company and JR, and fares on both routes cost ¥240. Rail-pass holders can use the JR buses free of charge, but the Shiden service is more frequent.

There's a tourist information booth (Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; tel & fax 0827/21-6050) in Iwakuni Station, which can provide maps and pamphlets and where the assistants might speak some English. Another information booth, by the bridge, has the same leaflets, but is only open daily during the peak holiday seasons, and at weekends during the rest of the year (9am-5pm).

All of Iwankuni's sights can be comfortably seen in a couple of hours. If you decide to stay the night, the cheapest option is Iwakuni Youth Hostel (tel 0827/43-1092, fax 43-0123; under ¥3000), in the southwest corner of the park, ten minutes' walk from the bus stop by the bridge. It's an old, large building, with shared Japanese-style rooms with TVs. Its peaceful location and considerate managers make this a good place to stay. The best ryokan is the pretty Shiratame Ryokan (tel 0827/41-0074, fax 41-1174; ¥30,000-40,000), which has rooms overlooking the bridge; even if you can't afford to stay, try to go for lunch. The Iwakuni Kokusai Kanko Hotel (tel 0827/43-1111, fax 41-2483; ¥20,000-30,000), has branches on both sides of the river, with the east-bank main hotel being decorated in kitsch 1970s style.

There are several eating options on the east side of the bridge: try the local fish dishes, such as Iwakuni-zushi , a block of vinegared rice topped with bits of cooked fish and vegetables, at Yoshida , which lies just beyond some interesting antique shops leading up to the Kintai-kyo. The best place to eat within Kikko-koen is Kinjo-en , next to the Nagaya-mon (daily 11am-5pm), which has an ornamental garden to sit out in on warm days. Their set lunch for ¥1200 includes a choice of udon or soba noodles, oden (boiled vegetables and fish cakes) and Iwakuni-zushi . Otherwise, pack a picnic and enjoy it in the park.