The Osaka Tourist Association beats both Tokyo and Kyoto hands down. There are tourist information offices all over the city, as well as at KIX , so that no matter where you arrive you're sure to be within walking distance of one. All are open daily from 8am to 8pm, have English-speaking staff and can help you book accommodation. Make sure you also pick up a free copy of the Osaka City Map , which includes a handy subway and local train map, too.

There's an office in Shin-Osaka Station (tel 06/6305-3311, fax 6305-3406), handy if you've arrived by Shinkansen, while the main office is in Umeda's JR Osaka Station (tel 06/6345-2189, fax 6345-6020), tucked away beside the Midosuji East Gate opposite the Hankyu department store. You should apply at either of these if you're interested in participating in the home-visit programme . You'll also find tourist information counters beneath the OCAT train terminal at JR Namba Station (tel 06/6643-2125, fax 6774-0555) and in Tennoji Station (tel 06/6774-3077, fax 6635-3114).

If you're going to be in Osaka for a while, it's well worth visiting the International House Osaka, 8-2-6 Uehonmachi (tel 06/6772-5931), which has a well-stocked library and cultural exchange facilities.

At all the information counters and in most top hotels you'll find the free quarterly booklet Meet Osaka , which carries basic listings of events. A better outline of what's happening appears in the monthly Kansai Time Out ( www.kto.co.jp ), one of Japan's best English-language magazines, which carries detailed information and listings for the whole Kansai area as well interesting features. The Japan Times, Daily Yomiuri and Asahi Evening News newspapers also carry special weekly sections on what's on in the Osaka area.