Osaka has a reputation as a foodies' paradise, but it can be a daunting task finding the best places to eat in a city crammed with so many restaurants. The trick is to stick to particular areas and to hunt around until something takes your fancy. Both Umeda and Dotombori offer rich pickings, while Tsuruhashi , on the JR Loop line to the east, is the main place to head for Korean food. The magazine Kansai Time Out reviews the latest additions to the restaurant scene and it's always a good idea to ask the locals what their favourite places are.

Of the several dishes that Osaka specializes in you shouldn't leave town without going to an okonomiyaki restaurant , preferably one where you can fry the thick pancakes yourself. Osaka's own style of sushi is oshizushi , layers of vinegared rice, seaweed and fish cut into bite-size chunks, and the city also has a favourite way of cooking chunky udon noodles , simmering them in a veggie, seafood or meat broth.