Lao Aviation
is the sole carrier servicing the country's internal flight network. With demand for domestic flights soaring in recent years, its tiny fleet of Chinese Yun-12 and Yun-7s and its lone ATR 72 have come under severe strain and, as of 1999, several Western embassies had travel advisories warning against flying Lao Aviation. Expats familiar with the airline claim that it is safe to fly the ATR; check with Western embassies in Vientiane for an update before you fly.
As with other forms of transport in Laos, you'll need to be extremely
flexible
. When booking a flight, don't count on the plane leaving at the appointed time or on the scheduled day. You may well turn up at the airport for your scheduled flight and find that the plane left the day before and that there isn't another one for a week. Reliability, however, increases on key routes: Vientiane-Louang Phabang, Vientiane-Pakxe and Vientiane-Phonsavan. Reconfirm your flight early and often at the Lao Aviation office.
Lao Aviation only accepts
US dollars cash
. In the provinces, if you do not have dollars, you'll need to get a letter from Lao Aviation informing the local bank that you need to exchange a travellers' cheque for dollars. Some banks may be able to give you a cash advance on Visa in dollars.
Sample one-way fares
are: Vientiane to Phonsavan $44; Vientiane to Xam Nua $70; Phonsavan to Louang Phabang $35; Louang Phabang to Vientiane $55; Vientiane to Pakxe $95.