The
cheapest places
for food are markets, food stalls and noodle shops. Found in most towns throughout Laos,
morning markets
(
talat sâo)
remain open all day despite their name and provide a focal point for noodle shops (
hân khãi fõe),
coffee vendors, fruit stands and sellers of crusty loaves of French bread. In Louang Phabang and Vientiane, vendors hawking pre-made dishes gather in
evening markets
known as
talat láeng
towards late afternoon. Takeaways such as grilled chicken (
pîng kai),
spicy papaya salad (
tam màk hung)
and, sometimes, dishes ranging from minced pork salad (
làp mu)
to stir-fried vegetables (
khùa phák),
are all available.
Noodle shops
and some food stalls feature a makeshift kitchen surrounded by a handful of tables and stools, inhabiting a permanent patch of pavement or even an open-air shophouse. Most stalls will specialize in only one general food type, or even only one dish, for example a stall with a mortar and pestle, unripe papayas and plastic bags full of pork rinds will only offer spicy papaya salads. Similarly, a noodle shop will generally only prepare noodles with or without broth - they won't have meat or fish dishes that are usually eaten with rice. A step up from street stalls and noodle shops are
hân kin deum,
literally "eat-drink shops" where you'll find a somewhat greater variety of dishes, as well as beer and whisky. Outside the major tourist centres, street stalls and noodle shops rarely stay open beyond 8pm.
Most proper
restaurants
(
hân ahãn)
are open-air establishments of dubious hygiene. Ethnic Vietnamese and Chinese dominate the restaurant scene in Laos, as many Lao simply don't eat out. A Lao-food restaurant is identifiable by a bowl of water placed on a stool near the entrance - for diners to wash their hands - and, of course, the
típ khào
(lidded wicker basket for sticky rice) on the tables next to diners. Many of these basic eateries won't have any menus - in Lao or English - so it's a good idea to memorize a few stock dishes. Restaurants catering more to foreigners usually have an English menu and offer fried noodles and fried rice as well as a variety of Lao, Chinese and Thai dishes. Vientiane has a range of more expensive gourmet Lao restaurants, as well as some of the best international food in Southeast Asia. A meal in one of these places won't cost more than $10.