The road quality takes a dive east of Ban Dong. Gaping potholes and long stretches of dirt (or mud) slow vehicles as they make the final push to the border pass at Lao Bao, cutting through ethnic minority villages and past more bomb craters obscured by thick vegetation. Route 9 ends its journey through Laos in DAEN SAWAN , a small village which is more tourist-friendly than most remote border towns. Friendly   guesthouse (under $5) has utilitarian rooms with shared bathrooms and a helpful owner. Attached to the guesthouse is the popular Loung Aloune   restaurant ; baguettes are on offer at another shop nearby. Young Vietnamese girls wander the street offering exchange services in all the currencies that drive trade along Route 9, but you're better off swapping bank notes at the Lao May Bank in town or at the branch at the Lao Immigration Office: travellers entering Laos from Vietnam have complained of being shamelessly fleeced by freelance currency traders. $20 is more than enough to get you to Savannakhet.