The settlement of HOUAYXAI , sandwiched between the Mekong and a range of hills, is a popular border crossing with Thailand . Non-extendable thirty-day Thai visas are available on arrival in Chiang Khong on the Thai side. Once you're across the Mekong and past immigration (daily 8am-5.30pm), you can get one of the regular buses to Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai.

Houayxai's only real sight is hilltop Wat Chom Khao Manilat , boasting a tall, Shan-style building of picturesquely weathered teakwood, now used as a classroom for novice monks. The most popular of the town's hotels is Manilat Hotel (under $5), which is located at the top of the road leading from the ferry landing and has clean two- and three-bed rooms, with fan and attached hot-water bath. The downstairs restaurant does decent Chinese stir-fries. Twenty metres downriver, on the same side of the street, Houei Sai Hotel (under $10) offers similar rooms and has a balcony overlooking the Mekong. Newer, but lacking in character, is Thaweesinh Hotel ($5-25), which sits on the opposite side of the street some 50m upriver, offering en-suite doubles, some with air-con. Nearby Savanh Bokeo (under $5) offers the cheapest deal in town, with its large two-, three- and four-bed rooms and shared facilities. Keep going another 500m in the same direction to find Arimid Guest House (under $15), a collection of sturdy huts with en-suite bathroom and hot water. The food here is quite good and many travellers reckon it's the best value in town if you plan on staying a few days. Opposite Thaweesinh Hotel, the no-frills Mouang Neua   restaurant dishes out decent Lao and Chinese meals - the vegetable omelette is a must. The lively Nutpop, a few blocks north, does stir-fry dishes to order, cold beer and delicious fruit smoothies, while nearby Ban Midtapab offers excellent fish and views across the Mekong.