LAO PAKO , an environmentally friendly resort on the Nam Ngum River, 50km northeast of Vientiane, makes a good trip out of the capital. You could easily spend two days here, swimming, bird-watching and hiking to nearby villages. The resort also hosts monthly full moon parties with a BBQ and lào hai rice wine. Accommodation ranges from doubles ($13) and dorm beds ($2.60) to a two-room bungalow ($18.50). It's also possible to camp on a bamboo platform ($1.50) in the woods. Call ahead for reservations (tel 021/312234 or radio phone 222925). Catch the blue Pakxap-bound government bus at Vientiane's Morning Market, and get off at Somsamai, where boatmen will ferry you downriver (25 min; 8000K).