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BY BOAT
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Slow boats leave from the Navigation Office landing behind the former Royal Palace in the old city, an easy walk from most guesthouses. Departures for Vientiane, Pakbeng and Nong Khiaw are usually posted on a chalk board here, but check with boat captains the evening before and arrive at the pier early. Speedboats leave from a separate landing in the village of Ban Don, 7km north of the city (6000K by tuk-tuk). Eight-seat speedboats depart for points north and south along the Mekong River, as well as for destinations along the Nam Ou River from a queue when full. Arrive early to get a seat, although there's no guarantee that every destination is served every day; enquire the day before you plan to travel. Alternatively, you can hire a speedboat.

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