Banks and exchange Lane Xang Bank on Xiang Thong Road changes travellers' cheques for a two percent charge; cash advances on Visa are possible; Lane Xang Bank maintains an exchange bureau (daily 8.30am-4pm) on Latsavong Road; cash and travellers' cheques only.

Boat charters Mr Thongdi speaks excellent English and has two boats. You can contact him at Bouchane Rice Shop, Manthatoulat Road (tel 071/212910), next to the Auberge Calao.

Hospitals and clinics The main hospital is on Setthathilat Road; a new International Clinic (tel 071/252049) is around the corner on the hospital's western side. In case of a serious illness, fly to Chiang Mai, Thailand, where there are several good hospitals.

Internet access PlaNet CyberCentre, Xiang Thong Road (daily 8am-8pm; $2 for 10 min); New Computer Center, Latsavong Road (daily 8am-8pm; $2 for 10min or 2000K per min).

Massage and herbal sauna The Red Cross (daily 5-7.30pm) on Visounalat Road (tel 071/212303) has traditional Lao massage at 25,000K per hour (reserve ahead) and an excellent sauna for 10,000K (bring a sarong).

Post office The GPO (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 1-5pm, Sat 8am-noon) is located on the corner of Xiang Thong and Setthathilat roads. Poste restante is kept for three months.

Telephone services International calls and faxes at Telecom (daily 8am-9pm), behind the GPO. No collect calls, but a callback service is available.

Tour agencies Sodetour, Manthatoulat Road (tel 071/212092); Lane Xang, Visounalat Road (tel 071/212793); Lao Travel Service, Xiang Thong Road (tel 071/212725); Diethlem, Xiang Thong Road (tel 071/212277); Inter-Lao Tourisme, Setthathilat Road (tel 071/212034).