Louang Phabang prides itself on its
food
. At the top of your list should be
aw lam,
a bitter-sweet soup, heavy on aubergines and mushrooms. Other local specialities include
jaew bong,
a condiment of red chillis, shallots, garlic and dried buffalo skin, and
phak nâm,
a type of watercress particular to the area and widely used in salads.
If you're looking for something lively, head over to the popular
Rama
disco
(daily 9-11.30pm), on Visounalat Road, a fun, upcountry club attached to the hotel of the same name with a live band and a laid-back dance floor, where both Lao and foreign clientele are welcome. The best
bar
in town is at the French-owned
Duang Champa
, which tends to stay open later than other spots in town at the weekend. Across town in the
Souvannaphoum
,
Le Rendez-Vous
benefits from the regal atmosphere of a hotel that was once home to former prime minister Prince Souvannaphouma. If you're looking for a bar on the Lao hipster scene, check out the dimly lit no-name bar across from the
Rama,
run by a cool Lao returnee who spent ten years in Tennessee. Most venues close by midnight.
Noodles and street stalls
A
night market
sets up in the evenings between the post office and the river.
Khao Biak Sen
, Xiang Thong Road. Great bowls of round rice noodles served at punishingly low tables outside a gorgeously unrestored French villa...
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Cafés
Bo Ben Nyang
, Xiang Thong Road, Ban Khili. Situated in a mulberry paper gallery,
Bo Ben Nyang
serves a range of teas. The upstairs balcony, which affords a wraparound temple view, is the perfect spot to be at 4pm, when the wats' call to...
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Restaurants
Most of Louang Phabang's
restaurants
open daily for lunch and stop serving food by 9pm. With the exception of the restaurants at the
Phou Vao
and
Souvannaphoum
hotels, where dining is very civilized, but pricey by Lao...
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