A night market sets up in the evenings between the post office and the river.

Khao Biak Sen , Xiang Thong Road. Great bowls of round rice noodles served at punishingly low tables outside a gorgeously unrestored French villa built in 1926.

Khao Soi Ban That Louang , Xiang Thong Road. A few blocks south of Nam Phou, this small shop-house serves up excellent, spicy bowls of hard-to-find northern-Lao-style noodles.

Mi Bet , on the corner of Visounalat and Setthathilat roads. Yellow noodles loaded with slices of roast duck. Nâm whãn, the obscenely-coloured yet delicious dessert, is also available.