Most of Louang Phabang's restaurants open daily for lunch and stop serving food by 9pm. With the exception of the restaurants at the Phou Vao and Souvannaphoum hotels, where dining is very civilized, but pricey by Lao standards, the average meal at a restaurant costs $2.50 and nowhere will you spend more than $6.

Duang Champa , Kingkitsalat Road. Lao and French meals are served in a spacious, stylishly low-key dining area in a colonial house. Investigate the $4 set meals and impressive sundaes.

Han Somtam Khaem Khong Wat Nong , near Wat Nong. Tiny white shop-house serving the town's best spicy papaya salad, and intriguing bowls of boiled rice cubes and spicy sauce, called feun. There's no sign: look for the green doors hung with bags of pork skin crisps.

Lamach , Xiang Thong Road. Vegetarian restaurant with outdoor tables and all dishes made without fish sauce. The mango shake here is the dean of Louang Phabang fruit shakes.

Malee , Phou Vao Road. Something of a local legend if still decidedly no frills, this is a good spot to try local specialities such as aw lam and khai phaen, and an interesting turkey làp.

Pakhuay Mixay , near Wat Xiang Mouan. The Lao cuisine served here is perfectly good, but the main draw is the garden atmosphere, in a quiet residential corner of the old city.

Le Potiron , Xiang Thong Road. With full-flavour pâtés, a fine pepper steak for $3.50 and mouth-watering pizzas, it's hard not to satisfy a hankering for Western food at this good-value eatery.

Le Saladier , Xiang Thong Road, next door to Le Potiron. An extensive menu of very tasty salads as well as less leafy meals. Equally important, it has draught Beer Lao.

Sala Kheme Khane , Kingkitsalat Road. High on the bank of the Nam Khan River behind Phou Si, this is the classiest of the riverside restaurants. The keng kai màk nao, a soup served with chicken, and the sai-ua Louang Phabang, or Lao-style sausages, are standouts on this menu of traditional Lao food.

Somchanh , Ban Wat That. Lao food in the old silversmiths' quarter, with good views of the Mekong. The duck is recommended, or try Kai Sawan, "heavenly chicken".

Villa Santi , Xiang Thong Road. The best Lao food in town, cooked by the daughter of the legendary Phia Sing, the last chef to cook for the Lao royal family. Very moderately priced.

Young Koun , Visounalat Road. This old backpacker favourite, located across from the Rama, offers an extensive selection of Chinese and Lao food with an emphasis on vegetarian dishes.