Two local noodle dishes worth seeking out are baw bun (Vietnamese rice noodles served with chopped-up spring rolls and beef) and ap-jao (a Chinese dish loaded with stir-fried veggies and slices of beef, served in a tangy sauce). Savannakhet's fruit shakes are in a class of their own, and can be found throughout the city - look for the blenders. In the evening, shops selling soft drinks and a few tam màk hung vendors crop up on the riverbank in front of Wat Sainyaphum, a pleasant spot to catch the sunset over Thailand and mingle with the locals.

Baw Bun , fourth shop-house from the river, behind Santyphab Hotel. If it's baw bun you're after, this is the place. It's open daily 11.30am-2pm, but often sells out sooner.

Han Ahan Lao-Paris , Tha He Road, near the Immigration Office. Travellers flock to this riverfront shop-house, whose Vietnamese owners serve "Lao-French Food" ranging from spaghetti and steak to Korean BBQ and sukiyaki, as well as a superb Lao beef salad.

Mekong Riverside , north of Immigration Office on Tha He Road. Tables on a wooden terrace supply an excellent sunset view to season mediocre Thai-Lao dishes.

Peuksin , south of the church on Phetsalat Road. The superior ice coffees and a basic breakfast are a treat in this shop-house, frequented by Vietnamese men, who gather to enjoy boules and the Vietnamese board game co thoung. Mi kati, noodles in coconut milk, is served 11am-4pm.

Savanhthy Food Garden , in the town square. Collection of stalls hawking tasty Chinese and Lao noodle dishes and a few average rice dishes. The house speciality is ap-jao, and the tasty mi haeng - yellow noodles - comes fried with red pork, green onions and peanuts.

Sensabay , next to Santyphab guesthouse. Popular backpacker joint sporting menus in both English and Japanese. Cheap fried noodle and rice dishes, spring rolls and ice cream.