Passengers disembark from southbound buses at a market, known as Kilometre 2 Market, because it's 2km from the riverbank. Other buses arrive just up the road at the main bus station, located near the larger Souksomboun Market. Tuk-tuks serve both markets. For Visa cash advances and exchange of travellers' cheques, head for BCEL on Kouvolavong Road, just east of Nong Bua Kham Road. The town tourist office (Mon-Fri 8-11am & 2-4pm) is in the Phudoi Hotel.

Known locally as the See Sahn on account of its four storeys, Khammuan, Setthathilat Road (tel 051/212216; $10-20), is Thakhek's most popular hotel , offering great sunset views from the balcony. Two blocks inland from the Immigration Office, Tha Khaek May, Vientiane Road (tel 051/212043; under $10), is the only budget option in town, with drab air-con and fan rooms, some en suite. Souksomboun, formerly the Sikhot, Setthathilat Road (tel 051/212225; $10-20), is housed in an old French police station and boasts air-con rooms with a Seventies interior and cheaper fan rooms; staff are friendly, but do a sideline in arranging liaisons with local women for guests.

Food options are limited to a few noodle shops and one indoor restaurant, the Kulap Daeng, behind the Khammuan on Chao Anou Road, open daily 8am-10pm, and serving an array of Thai, Chinese and Lao dishes. At the southwest corner of the town square, a noodle shop, Phawilai, serves up noodles with grilled chicken, and mu yáw, a local sausage, all washed down with cold beer, while east of the square on the left, you'll find a stall selling mi (yellow noodles) and superb sapodilla shakes.