Travelling by road from Vientiane to Louang Phabang takes you through the spectacular limestone karst forest of VANG VIANG , 155km north of the capital, which, with its beautiful caves and nearby ethnic minority villages, makes an ideal point for a stopover. The friendly town reclines on the east bank of the Nam Xong River, and offers plenty of backpacker-oriented guesthouses and services.

Floating down the Nam Xong on huge tractor inner tubes is a good way to take in the view, with enough rapids and tiny islands to keep things interesting. A good launching point is near the village of Pakpok, 4km north of Vang Viang, which makes for a two- to three-hour trip. Tubes (2000K per day), bicycles (5000K per day) and motorcycles ($10 per day) can be rented at many places around town. A few guides feature tubing on their organized tours to the caves - signs are posted in restaurants and guesthouses - but groups can comprise as many as twenty people.