Sprawled across a valley surrounded by the cave-riddled karst formations used by the Pathet Lao as their wartime headquarters, VIANG XAI was cobbled together by comrades from Russia, North Korea and Vietnam as well as labourers from Houa Phan's notorious re-education camps. In 1973, at the end of the war, there were plans to make Viang Xai the heart of a new socialist nation, but in the end, the Pathet Lao leadership moved out and decided to keep Vientiane as the country's capital. Today, a victory arch made of oil drums is the gateway to this wax museum of empty kerbed streets, lined with broken, sci-fi street lamps.

Aside from the two noodle shops in the bare-bones market, satisfying meals, even fruit, can be hard to come by in Viang Xai. If you're planning to stay for more than one night you may want to bring supplies from Xam Nua. A little less than 2km from the market, on the northwestern edge of town, the large rooms at the faded, institutional-looking Viang Xai (under $5), surrounded by karsts and pine trees, is the most decent place to stay here.

The thrice-daily pick-up from Xam Nua (1hr) offloads in the dirt lot in front of the market. A hassle-free way of getting to Viang Xai is to hire a taxi ($3) in Xam Nua, which allows you to check into your hotel and order dinner and then get dropped off at Viang Xai's tourist office (daily, 8am-noon & 1-4pm), where you must register to tour the caves and pay a 1500K entrance fee. Coming from the town's entrance, pass the market, bear left at the stupa, and the tourist office is in the middle of the second block on the right. A guide will be assigned to you here for no extra charge, though none speaks English.