Ha-wai , Heng Boun Road. An excellent French and Vietnamese menu, including recommended kebabs, served with beans smothered in a garlic sauce, and watercress soup.

Kaysone , Chao Anou Road. A man and his wok serving phat thai and a selection of fine stir-fried dishes over rice for next to nothing out of a small shop-house on Bakery Street.

Nazim , Fa Ngum Road, between Nokeo Koummane Road and François Nginn Road. Cheap, popular Indian joint strong on vegetarian dishes; meat dishes tend to be a bit greasy.

Phikun , Louang Phabang Avenue, west of Khoun Boulom Road. Excellent, buffet-style Thai food including delicious curries and crispy fried bananas.

PVO , Samsenthai Road. Fantastic spring rolls, nâm neuang and baw bun served to a cha-cha beat. Great-value, full-flavour food. Highly recommended.