Airport departure tax is Rs1000 (Rs900 if flying within South Asia).

Addresses don't exist in Nepal: few streets even have names, and houses are never numbered. In cities, though, intersections or neighbourhoods ( tol) usually have names and these are gradually lending themselves to the major streets nearby.

Contraceptives Condoms and birth-control pills are available in pharmacies everywhere. Consult one of the clinics in Kathmandu for other contraceptive advice.

Customs Officers are fairly lax on entry, but they might note fancy video gear in your passport so you can't sell it in Nepal. They check more thoroughly on departure, mainly to make sure you're not smuggling antiques out.

Drugs are illegal, of course. However, cannabis grows wild throughout hill Nepal, and old folks sometimes smoke it as an evening tonic. Touts in Kathmandu - shady characters, but not informants - mostly peddle local hash, and also whisper offers of opium and heroin from the Golden Triangle.

Electricity is 220 volts/50 cycles per second, when you can get it: virtually all power in Nepal is generated by hydroelectric projects, so power cuts ("load shedding") are common, especially in spring when water levels get low. Most places tourists go are now electrified.

Embassies and consulates are all in Kathmandu.

Emergencies Where there's a phone, dial 100 for the police or 102 for an ambulance - but it's better to get a Nepali-speaker to do the talking. Registering with your embassy can expedite things in the event of an emergency.

Gay Nepal Nepalis will tell you gay sex doesn't happen, or it's "something that Indians do". There are no gay bars or meeting places or any support network whatsoever, even in the capital. Yet in a society where the sexes are kept well apart before marriage, and men routinely hold hands and sleep together, it obviously goes on. Gay couples will certainly feel a certain freedom in being able to be close in public - but obviously not too close. The only approach a gay traveller is likely to get is from touts who might offer, at the end of a long inventory of drugs, "nice Nepali girls", and if that doesn't work, boys. But it's nothing like the scene in, say, Thailand.

Laundry Tourist guest houses will generally send laundry out for you, although the turn-around time depends on the weather. Rates are reasonable. If you're doing your own, detergent is sold in inexpensive packets in Kathmandu.

Left luggage Guest houses will always store bags for you, an invaluable service if you go trekking or any time you just want to travel light. The usual charge is a few rupees per item per day, but some places waive this if you take a room when you return.

Time Nepal is 15 minutes ahead of India - just to be contrary, one suspects. That makes it 5 hours 45 minutes ahead of London, 10 hours 45 minutes ahead of New York, 13 hours 45 minutes ahead of Los Angeles, and 19 hours 45 minutes ahead of Sydney. Nepal doesn't observe daylight saving time, so daylight saving time elsewhere reduces the time difference by one hour.

Tipping In Nepal, tipping isn't compulsory, but rather a reward to be bestowed for good service or withheld for bad. It has become standard to tip waiters in tourist restaurants (it may be their only pay), but Rs20 or so should be sufficient in all but the fanciest places. Don't tip taxi drivers, except maybe to round up the fare to the nearest Rs5 or Rs10. Trekking porters and guides have their own expectations. Don't tip anyone until full completion of the service.