BOWEN , a quiet seafront settlement 60km north of Proserpine, was once under consideration as the site of the state capital, but it floundered after Townsville's foundation. Today, stark first impressions created by the sterile bulk of the saltworks on the highway are offset by a certain small-town charm and some pretty beaches just off to the north. The other attraction is the prospect of seasonal farm work : Bowen's mangoes and tomatoes are spoken of in reverential tones, and there's a large floating population of itinerant pickers in town between April and January. All three backpackers' hostels can help with finding work, though nothing's guaranteed.

The town centre overlooks Edgecumbe Bay , at the harbour end of Herbert Street , where you'll find the usual range of services and a couple of old colonial exteriors on the Grand View Hotel and the Harbour Office; buses stop outside Barrier Reef Travel (tel 07/4786 2222). Budget accommodation - which should be booked in advance - consists of Bowen Backpackers (tel 07/4786 3433; under $20) on Herbert Street; Barnacles (tel 07/4786 4400; under $20), around the corner on Gordon Street; and Trinity's at the Beach (tel 07/4786 4199; under $20), located near the beaches at 93 Horseshoe Bay Rd - they offer pick-ups from the centre. There's nothing particularly inspiring about any of these, which act as a base for workers; if you don't plan to work, you're unlikely to stay long. Mid-range options include Castle Motor Lodge , 6 Don St (tel 07/4786 1322; $50-70), about the closest to the centre of town. You can eat at the Club Hotel across from the post office and the late-night pizza shop down by the harbour, or stock up at Magees Supermarket on Williams Street and at numerous fruit and vegetable stalls.

Bowen's attractive beaches are a couple of kilometres north of the town centre. The best is Horseshoe Bay : small, and hemmed in by some sizeable boulders, with good waters for a swim or snorkel. Horseshoe Bay Resort (tel 07/4786 2564; units $35-50) makes an excellent base, two-minutes' walk from the sea, or you could simply borrow snorkeling gear and a bicycle from one of the hostels and make a day of it.

With your own transport, it might be worth skipping Bowen in favour of the ranch-style   Bogie River Bush House (tel 07/4785 3407, www.bogiebushhouse.com.au ), about 60km west of town towards Collinsville. This is a splendid retreat, with a range of accommodation from full-board rooms ($150 and upwards) through to backpacker dorms (under $20); there's a pool, you can go horse riding or fishing, and they also organize farm work .