CROYDON , 150km west of Georgetown along the main road, was the site of Queensland's last major goldrush after two station hands found nuggets in a fence-post hole in 1885. For a brief period the region received the attention it had always craved: within five years the railway was built and lucky miners whooped it up at Croydon's 36 hotels, but by 1900 chaotic management had brought operations to a close. Today, most buildings predate 1920; the Club Hotel (last of the 36), the general store and the restored old courthouse all have their original fittings and offer directions to other scattered relics. There's also plenty of atmosphere, and if you're tempted to stay, the Club Hotel (tel 07/4745 6184; $70-90) has beds and there's a van park on the Georgetown side.

Moving on , buses and the main road plough on to Normanton, 154km west, as does the Gulflander train ; which leaves Croydon on Thursday mornings from the station on Helen Street. When the rails and sleepers were unloaded at Normanton's wharves in the nineteenth century they were meant to form the first stage of a line to Cloncurry, but this was redirected to Croydon when gold was found. At the height of the gold rush the service carried 200 passengers a week.