The best of the surf beaches are those around the small town of LENNOX HEAD , 11km north of Ballina, a relaxed resort with a small shopping centre, some good cafés and restaurants and a lively pub. Lennox rates among the top ten surfing spots in the world and professionals congregate here for the big waves in May, June and July. Adding to Lennox Head's appeal is the calm, fresh water of Lake Ainsworth close to the beach: stained dark by the tea trees around its banks, it's a popular swimming spot for families seeking refuge from the crashing surf, and the soft, practically medicinal water is wonderful for your skin. Lennox Head Sailing (tel 02/6687 6010), on the lake, rents out sailboards and can arrange lessons.

Ideally situated between the lake and the beach, Lennox Head Backpackers , 2-3 Ross St (tel 02/6687 7636; rooms $35-50, dorms under $20), is a relaxed place where massage and aromatherapy are available in-house; there's free use of boards and fishing gear, as well as bargain rental of windsurfers and catamarans. Also in a prime position is the Lake Ainsworth Caravan Park on Pacific Parade (tel 02/6687 7249; cabins $35-70). The cheap but excellent pizza, pasta and salad available at Lenno Head Pizza on Ballina Street (tel 02/6687 7080) is popular with surfies, as is the delicious grub at Mi Thai a few shops further down. The Lennox Point Hotel serves great modern Australian food in a convivial atmosphere with water views; it also plays host to bands on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.

Since Lennox Head is off the Pacific Highway, only one Greyhound bus a day makes it out here; Kirklands also stops in town daily, and there are local services to and from Byron Bay.