Take a break in the picturesque mountain villages of TILBA TILBA and CENTRAL TILBA , 17km south of Narooma, where time seems to have stood still - and various craft shops and workshops are ready and willing to exploit the olde worlde ambience. It's an area famous for its cheeses, and is also a little-known wine-growing region: Central Tilba's hundred-year-old ABC Cheese Factory is open for visits and free tastings (daily 9am-5pm); and you can follow this up with some wine tasting at Tilba Valley Winery , signposted off the Princes Highway, 5km north of town (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 11am-5pm). Situated on Corunna Lake, the working family vineyard and winery is an idyllic spot for a ploughman's lunch on the terrace or a picnic on the grounds, overlooking a lake. Try the unusual local mead made at the winery.

The Dromedary Hotel , on Bates Street in Central Tilba (tel 02/4473 7223, fax 4473 7229; $50-70), is a quaint, historic pub with open fires and super-cheap singles; counter meals are served and there's B&B accommodation. The nearby Rose & Sparrow Cafe offers cream teas and light meals but is self-consciously twee. If you're feeling energetic you can follow the walking trail which starts from Pam's Store in Tilba Tilba and leads through a forest to the summit of Mount Dromedary , at almost 800m. The hike there and back is about 11km, and you should allow five to six hours - or go for the lazy option, with a horse from Mount Dromedary Trail Rides (tel 02/4473 7290, or book through the Narooma Tourist Information Centre).