Surrounded by forest, the pretty little village of WAUCHOPE (pronounced War-hope), 22km west of Port Macquarie, makes an enjoyable contrast to the coast. Through working exhibits, the open-air museum of Timbertown , 3km from the village on the Oxley Highway (daily 9.30am-3.30pm; free), depicts life as it must have been in the isolated timber settlements 150 years ago. Timber logs are pulled over muddy roads to saw-pits, where they are cut and shaped, the bakery bakes and sells bread fresh from the oven, and many other aspects of Victorian life are re-enacted. North of Wauchope, the Wilson River Rainforest Reserve 's picnic grounds are a popular destination for day-trips from Port Macquarie. Another feature of Wauchope is the large separatist lesbian community that lives in the vicinity - something strangely absent from the tourist literature. For more on Wauchope, see the www.emeraldheartland.org.au website.

Basic pub accommodation and counter meals can be had at the Hastings Hotel , on the corner of High and Cameron streets (tel 02/6585 2003; $20-35), and there are slightly fancier rooms at the Wauchope Motel (tel 02/6585 1933; $50-70). The delightful Mount Seaview Retreat , on the Oxley Highway towards Tamworth (tel 02/6587 7155 or free call 1800 818 804, fax 6587 7195, www.mtseaviewretreat.com.au ; resort $50-90, lodge $20-35, bunkhouse under $20, linen $5 or BYO), a cattle station on the Hastings River, offers farmstays and campsites as well as rooms; there's a bar, restaurant and tennis court, and the resort organizes very popular cross-country horse-riding (also available for non guests; $22 per trail ride) and rainforest 4WD safaris ($27-71). You can also swim in the river here. They will pick up guests from Wauchope train station or Port Macquarie airport.

You can get to Wauchope daily with the Port Macquarie Bus Service (tel 02/6583 2161); on weekdays the 9.20am service goes directly to Timbertown, returning at 2.30pm (around $6)