260km west of Cobar, WILCANNIA , the former "Queen City of the West", was founded in 1864 and towards the twentieth century was a major port on the Darling River, from where produce was transported by paddle steamers and barges down the Darling-Murray river system to Adelaide. Droughts, the advent of the railways and the motor car put an end to the river trade, and today the ruins of the docks and the old lift-up bridge, along with a few impressive public buildings - the post office, police station, courthouse, Catholic convent and Athenaeum Museum (daily 9am-5pm) which houses the tourist centre (tel 08/8091 5909, cdsc@outbacknsw.org.au ) - are reminders of the once-prosperous era. Nowadays Wilcannia survives as a service centre for a far-flung Outback population, with its banks, shops, motels and service stations, though problems with unemployment and alcoholism combine to make it, while not exactly threatening, perhaps not the most welcoming place to stay.

If you do need somewhere to stop overnight, try the friendly Wilcannia Motel (tel 08/8091 5802; $70-90) or Grahams Motel (tel 08/8091 5040; $50-70 cash only), both situated on the Barrier Highway. If you want to experience Outback life, head 85km southeast of Wilcannia along the unsealed Cobb Highway to Yelta Station (tel 08/8091 9467, fax 8091 9444), a sheep and cattle property run by Bill and Chris Elliot. The family take only one set of guests at a time, camping or staying in fully equipped shearers' quarters ($35-50). You can reach the station by two-wheel drive, unless it's been raining - in which case the road is generally closed.

Heading north or south of Wilcannia you can follow the river along one of Australia's last great 4WD adventures - The Darling River Run - 829km of Outback history, heritage and landscape running between Brewarrina and Wentworth. Further information on the run is available from Bourke Information Centre (tel 02/6872 2280).

You can travel the Darling River upstream northwest of Wilcannia all the way to Bourke, just under 300km, on unsealed roads that closely follow the east and west banks with crossings at the settlements of Tilpa and Louth. Station properties dot the riverfront, including Mount Murchinson Station, on the west side of the river 30km north of Wilcannia, said to have once been managed by the son of Charles Dickens. At TILPA , 130km north of Wilcannia, there's a classic Outback pub, the 1890s Tilpa Hotel (tel 02/6837 3928, tilpapub@bigpond.com.au ; $20-35), where you can find meals (the steak sandwiches come highly recommended), accommodation and fuel , and for a $2 donation towards the Royal Flying Doctor Service, you can immortalize your name on the pub's tin wall. Ninety-three kilometres further on, at LOUTH , Shindy's Inn sells diesel and petrol and has basic accommodation in miniature cabins (tel 02/6874 7416; $20-35).