About 50km inland from Sydney and just a few kilometres apart, Windsor and Richmond are two of five towns founded by Governor Macquarie in the early nineteenth century to capitalize on the fertile, well-watered soil of the Upper Hawkesbury River area. You can take a train to Windsor and Richmond from Central Station in Sydney via Blacktown.
WINDSOR
is probably the best preserved of all the historic towns in the riverlands, with a lively centre of narrow streets, spacious old pubs and numerous historic colonial buildings. The
Hawkesbury River Museum and Tourist Information Centre
on Thompson Square (daily 10am-4pm; museum $2.50; tel 02/4577 2310,
www.hawkesburycitycouncil.com.au
) is a good place to start exploring, and the
Macquarie Arms Hotel,
claimed to be the oldest in Australia, is the best place to end up for a cool beer. From Windsor, Putty Road (route 69) heads north through beautiful forest country, along the eastern edge of the Wollemi National Park, to Singleton in the Hunter Valley.
RICHMOND
's attractions include an old graveyard and settlers' dwellings, plus its unspoilt riverside setting. Cinema buffs could take in a bargain-priced film at the Regent Twin Cinema (Mon-Thurs and daytime Fri & Sat $8, Sun $7; tel 02/4578 1800), a classic, beautifully decorated old theatre. Moving on, the Bells Line of Road (Route 40), from Richmond to Lithgow via Kurrajong, is a great scenic drive; all along the way are fruit stalls stacked with produce from the valley. There's a wonderful view of the Upper Hawkesbury Valley from the lookout point at
Kurrajong Heights
, on the edge of the Blue Mountains, and you can take it all in from the
Corkscrew Cafe
(Mon-Fri 11am-4pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm). Another scenic drive from Richmond to the Blue Mountains, emerging near Springwood, is south along the Hawkesbury Road, with the
Hawkesbury Heights Lookout
halfway along providing panoramic views. Not far from the lookout is the modern solar-powered
Hawkesbury Heights YHA Hostel
(tel 02/4754 5621; under $20), with more views from its secluded bush setting, and no chance of overcrowding with only two beds in each of the six rooms.