YASS dates back to 1821 when Europeans first entered the area. Prior to this, the area had a high Aboriginal population, who gave the town its name, "yharr", meaning running water. On the outskirts of Yass as you exit the Hume Highway onto the Yass Valley Way from Goulburn (87km away) is the National Trust-owned Cooma Cottage (Wed-Mon 10am-4pm; $4.40), the former home of the famous explorer Hamilton Hume , set in rolling countryside stocked with sheep. The well-preserved nineteenth-century homestead's architectural interest is outweighed by the excellent interpretive material on Hume and his expeditions. Hume was different from many of his contemporaries in that he was born in Australia - in Parramatta, to free settlers in 1797. His explorations relied on his knowledge of the bush: he befriended Aborigines who taught him their skills and language, which made him infinitely better prepared than those equipped only with romantic notions. His first expedition was at the age of 17, accompanied by his brother and his Aboriginal friend Doual, and the trio discovered prime grazing lands in the Southern Highlands. Three years later he led the Goulburn Plains expedition, and pushing further afield in 1821 he discovered the rich and productive Yass Plains, where he settled in later life. Hume's best-known exploration was when he paired with Hovell, an English sea captain, to head for Port Phillip Bay; you can follow in their footsteps on the Hume and Hovell Walking Track. He also assisted Sturt in tracing the Murray and Darling rivers. The Tourist Information Centre (daily 9am-5pm; tel 02/6226 2557, fax 6226 1509, yasstourism@interact.net.au ) has maps outlining a two-kilometre informative walk, and the Hamilton Hume Museum (Sat, Sun & school holidays; $2.20) contains displays on what the town looked like back in the 1890s. The old Tramway in the centre of town features the smallest platform in Australia (open Sun afternoons only; $3.30).

Continuing along the Hume Highway, 27km south of Yass is a turn-off to the Burrinjuck Waters State Park , and from here it's a 25km drive on a sealed road to the bushland park set around Burrinjuck Dam, with camping and picnic areas filled with kangaroos and chirping rosellas (tel 02/6227 8114; cottages $70-90, on-site vans, units and tent sites $35-50). There is a riverboat cruise most weekends in summer on the Lady BJ (tel 02/6227 7270; 2hr; $16) up to the dam and across the main basin. Wee Jasper is a picturesque village located on the backwaters of Burrinjuck Dam, with a basic campsite (tel 02/6227 9626). From here you can visit Carey's Caves and see some of Australia's most spectacular limestone rock formations (Fri-Mon 9am-5pm; other times by appointment on 02/6227 9622; $9).

Turning off the Hume Highway at Bowning brings you to the peaceful village of Binalong . Australia's best-known poet, Banjo Patterson, spent much of his childhood here, attending the local school. Binalong railway station was used to transport gold from nearby Lambing Flats (Young), which made it a lucrative area for bushrangers. The grave of the daring bushranger "Flash" Johnny Gilbert, a member of a local outlaw gang is along the side of the road to Harden.