If your budget will stretch to it, driving is the best way to go, enabling you to get to places beyond the reach of public transport and to set your own timetable, although it's worth being conscious of the damage to the environment cars cause and using more eco-friendly transport wherever possible.

In order to drive in New Zealand you need a valid licence from Australia, Britain, Canada, Fiji, Germany, Namibia, The Netherlands, Switzerland or South Africa; citizens of other countries need to obtain an International Driver's Licence before they leave (available from national motoring organizations).

Road rules are similar to those in the UK, Australia and the US, but if you plan to do much driving, you should pick up a copy of The Road Guide from AA offices or selected bookshops and newsagents for about $14.95. The one variation peculiar to New Zealand is that you must give way to all traffic crossing or coming from your right; this means that if you are turning left and another car coming from the opposite direction wants to turn right into the same side-road, you must let them go first. Most importantly, drive on the left , and remember that seatbelts are compulsory for all occupants. Always park in the same direction as that in which you are travelling; roadside parking facing oncoming traffic is illegal.

The speed limit for the open road is 100km/hr, reduced to 50km/hr in built-up areas and in limited speed zones (signposted LSZ ) when road conditions are deemed unsafe - owing to bad weather, poor visibility, crossing pedestrians, cyclists, or excessive traffic. The fine for speeding is currently $120; some drivers warn others of lurking police patrols by flashing their headlights at oncoming cars. Drink driving is a major problem in New Zealand: as part of a campaign to cut the death-toll, random breath tests have been introduced, and offenders are dealt with severely.

Unleaded and super unleaded petrol and diesel are available in New Zealand. Prices hover around 97¢ a litre for unleaded, $1.02 for super unleaded, and 75¢ for diesel, with predictably higher prices in more out-of-the-way places.

The New Zealand Automobile Association (AA) has reciprocal rights with motoring organizations from lots of other countries, so check with your home service before you leave. If you don't qualify and you'll be driving your own vehicle, consider joining the AA as an overseas visitor ($54, plus $25 joining fee, www.aa.org.nz ), valid for six months, or as a full member ($66, plus $25 joining fee), valid for a year. Apart from free 24-hour emergency breakdown service (tel 0800/500 222) - excluding vehicles bogged on beaches - membership entitles you to free maps, accommodation guides and legal assistance, discounts on some rental cars and accommodation, plus access to insurance and pre-purchase vehicle inspection services.

Road conditions are generally good: most roads are sealed, although a few have a "metalled" surface composed of an aggregate of loose chippings. Obviously, these are slower to drive along, are prone to wash-outs and landslides after heavy rain, and demand considerably more care and attention from the driver. Metalled roads are clearly marked on most maps, so plan your route carefully beforehand. Some car-rental companies prohibit the use of their cars on the worst metalled roads - typically those along Ninety Mile Beach, Skippers Canyon and around the Coromandel Peninsula. Always check conditions locally before setting off on these routes.

Compared with most parts of the world, there are relatively few cars on New Zealand's roads, but traffic can still be a problem around the major cities and on public holidays. Other hazards include flocks of sheep and slow, wide farm equipment on country roads, as well as monstrous logging trucks in forested regions.