This tolerant attitude has conspired to deghettoize the gay community; even in Auckland and Wellington , the only cities with genuinely vibrant gay scenes, there aren't any predominantly gay areas and most venues have a mixed clientele. Auckland's gay community celebrates its existence with a glam, over-the-top parade and associated revelry known as the Hero Parade , a two-week celebration of film, theatre, dance and sport that culminates in a street parade along Ponsonby Road and an all-night dance party.

Outside the festival season, places slip back into the groove of easy-going clubbing. Auckland's scene is generally the largest and most lively, but the intimate nature of Wellington makes it more accessible and welcoming. Christchurch has a small number of predominantly gay venues in the inner city and the fledgling Freedom dance party each February; and Nelson has a moderately active gay community centred on Spectrum, 42 Franklyn St (tel 03/547 2827). Elsewhere it is hard to find a gay network to plug into; even Queenstown is quiet, though this is beginning to change.

Out in the sticks you'll be relying on the gay press to make contacts - unless you can time your visit to coincide with the annual Vinegar Hill Summer Camp , held just outside the small town of Hunterville, in the middle of the North Island, from Boxing Day to just after New Year. It is a very laid-back affair with perhaps a couple of hundred gay men and women camping out, mixing and partying. There's no charge (except a couple of dollars for camping), no tickets and no hot water, but a large river runs through the grounds and everyone has a great time. Around the same time Takaka hosts the broadly similar annual gay men's Summer Camp , which runs for two weeks from December 27 and draws around eighty gay men. Some camp on site, others stay at B&Bs nearby. Check the gay press for details - or just turn up.