Several companies around Auckland will take you kayaking . One of the most popular trips is with Fergs Kayaks (tel & fax 09/529 2230), kayaking the 7km across to Rangitoto Island , watching sundown, hiking to the summit, then paddling back by the light of your torch, and perhaps that of a silvery moon (Oct-March daily 5.30pm; 5-6hr; $60). They also do day-trips to Rangitoto and both day and evening trips 3km to Devonport, stopping for a fish-and-chip supper (Oct-March daily 6pm; 4hr; $50).

The Devonport-based Little Adventure Co (tel 09/446 6335, www.littleadventure.co.nz , littleadventure@paradise.net.nz ) arranges less ambitious trips, guiding you along the coastline (1hr for $25, half-day $55, full-day $80), or on a twilight or moonlit tour ($50/40), while highly-regarded paddling trips with an ecological bent are organized by Auckland Wilderness Kayaking (tel 09/813 3399, www.nzkayak.co.nz , gowild@nzkayak.co.nz ), who offer half- and full-day paddles on the Hauraki Gulf ($50 & $95) along with night paddles ($60) and overnight trips (price dependent on numbers).