Newmarket is rapidly heading the same way as Parnell, with interesting new places opening up all the time, though unless you are staying nearby it isn't worth making a special effort.

Bodrum , 2 Osborne St. Boisterous Turkish restaurant open nightly for feta- and potato-stuffed filo cigars, kebabs in every style imaginable and regional favourites like felafel, moussaka and spanakopita, all at moderate prices. Licensed & BYO.

Kenzie , 17a Remuera Rd. Smart café selling pricey but delicious lunches, cakes and coffee, all beautifully presented.

Vivo , 65 Davis Crescent (tel 09/522 0688). Gourmet pizza served in a capacious wood-floored interior or out on the pavement with the denizens of this trendy little street.