CODRINGTON , the island's capital and only settlement, holds almost the entire population within its grid of narrow streets. It's a well-spread-out place, with plenty of brightly painted single-storey clapboard or concrete buildings. There are a couple of guesthouses, a handful of restaurants, bars and supermarkets, but, for the most part, people keep to themselves, and there is little sign of life apart from a few curious schoolchildren, dogs and the occasional goat. On Sundays the capital livens up with a cricket match at the Holy Trinity School.