Small, run-down and utterly charming, SPEIGHTSTOWN (pronounced "Spikestown") is the second town of Barbados, though it remains largely untouched by tourist development. It was once a thriving port, famous for its tough-talking, uncompromising inhabitants - "Speightstown flattery" is an old Bajan term for a back-handed compliment. Over the last century, however, the place has declined precipitately, and there is little to do today but stroll around and soak up the remnants of the local fishing industry, a few stylish old buildings and a handful of excellent restaurants that cater for day visitors and the guests of nearby hotels.

Buses running up the west coast normally terminate at Speightstown, stopping at the eastern end of Church Street - from here, head down towards the sea, passing the parish church on your right. Queen Street has an unofficial tourist information office in the Fisherman's Pub .