The final town in Belize, 2km before the Guatemalan border, is BENQUE VIEJO DEL CARMEN , where Guatemala and Belize combine in almost equal proportions and Spanish is the dominant language. It's a quiet place, but served by a constant stream of buses and shared taxis to and from the border post; some buses continue all the way to the market in Melchor. The Belize border is open from 6am to midnight - though you're best advised to cross in daylight - and Guatemalan migración closes at around 8pm.

There's nothing to pay to enter Belize, but leaving Belize you pay an exit tax of US$10, plus the PACT Conservation fee of US$3.75; Guatemalan officials routinely charge a Q10 (US$1.25) entry (and exit) tax; if you require a visa (US$10) they can sometimes be issued here, but you might have to go back to the embassy in Belize City, so it's best to equip yourself with one in advance. Buses on to Flores call at the migración to pick up passengers, and you'll certainly be approached by drivers of the minibuses which shuttle between the border and Tikal (US$10-15) and Flores; ask for Hugo Mayén or Manuel Sandoval.